Saturday, July 2, 2016

A Park of Its Own/Glen Aulin and the Return to the Valley

So everybody knows I’m a pretty big exaggerator—a million of this, a billion of that, a ton of something else…well, when I tell you that today I killed 200 mosquitoes, I’m actually probably shorting myself some kills. Holy cow, they were everywhere, just swarming around me—I even remembered to put bug spray on this morning! I was so proud of myself. I just did take it with me because my backpack was already kinda full and heavy. Thankfully, I think only one mosquito that I killed had blood, so apparently I got to all but one of them? It’ll be gone in a few hours anyways. A few hours…aka how much sleep I got before going hiking today. The real bummer was that Open Mic Night (where I was at last night) wasn’t even good. The last one was okay; this one sucked. I stayed, thinking it would get better…but it didn’t, so I just talked to Conor and some of our other friends that I found there.

Right, so I got five hours of sleep before I packed up my stuff this morning and went to Yosemite Village to get on the Hiker’s Bus to Tuolumne. I have a grievance with the use of the word “hiker” here. This bus gets up to Tuolumne around 10:30 and leaves again at 2:00. What decent hike can be done in 3.5 hours? It’s really setting me up for a loss. I’m pretty sure this is why most people call it the “backpacker’s bus” instead (everyone but me and two other people were backpackers getting dropped off at their stops). So this year, Aramark decided to make this a guided tour and charge people for the use of this bus. Round-trip to Tuolumne from the Valley is $23 ($11.50 for employees). Lucky for me, I happen to know the bus driver and she said that she gets employees comp tickets from the ticket agent at the Lodge. So I got to go for free. :) I’m special. (Thanks Stephanie!)
 from Olmstead Point
 Tenaya Lake
Pothole Dome

So I get up there and I have her drop me off at the Visitor’s Center, the closest place to the Glen Aulin Trailhead. Now, it’s 10:20 and the trail’s about 12 miles round-trip and I’m supposed to be back at 2:00, so I have to average 18 min. per mile. Doable, but not enjoyable—which is why I spent the past day brainstorming ways to get back to the valley after the bus leaves.


Plan A—take bus back at 2:00—highly unlikely
Plan B—run into someone I know with a vehicle to take me back
Plan C—find Andrew, a coworker camping near Vogelsang and have him bring me back Saturday night
Plan D—find Tommy, a former coworker who works somewhere doing something and ask him to let me sleep on the floor
Plan E—ask super terrifically nicely at the Lodge or one of the High Sierra Camps if they’ll let me crash somewhere
Plan F—sleep on the ground outside, pray I don’t freeze to death, return in the morning
Plan G—attempt to hike back via Cloud’s Rest—additional ~22 miles from Glen Aulin HSC
Plan H—find the people that Miles said play ultimate up near Tenaya on Fridays and ride back with them
Plan I—Plan TBD
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Plan J—Hitch-hike back—promised solid majority of my close relatives that I wouldn’t hitch-hike again, even though this is the option almost everyone told me to do
Plan K—Actually pay for a room somewhere—Do I look rich to you? No.

So I’ll leave you with those lovely options and keep you guessing (or reading, whichever) to find out what I did. Unless you’re smart and you already figured it out.

First of all, Tuolumne is often referred to as a park of its own. The Tuolumne Meadows are just so different from Yosemite Valley. They’re both spectacular in their owns ways. Tuolumne is also about 4000 feet higher in elevation than the valley, so prepare your lungs. Now that I’ve been there, I would have to agree with the people who say they’re nothing alike. But I love it. I couldn’t stop taking picture of everything. Everywhere I turned, it was gorgeous and I wanted to remember it all. Remember when I told you what to do if you only have one day in Yosemite? Well if you have two days—spend your second day here. Don’t do what I did of course—that would be crazy. Take the Backpacker’s Bus up to Tuolumne, ride the free shuttle around to the different stops, and explore. Then get your butt back on the bus at 2:00.

The hike to Glen Aulin was beautiful. I expected nothing less once I got up there. It was about six miles from the Visitor Center parking lot to the bottom of White Cascade/the Glen Aulin HSC. I had never been to a High Sierra Camp, so I decided to go check this one out while I was there. They’re available by reservation only, and from what I hear, you should do that early. Breakfast and supper are included in your reservation price, and the menu for tonight looked pretty darn fantastic. I ate my pb&j at the base of White Cascade Falls. Not a bad view for lunch. ;) When I got there, it was 12:30, so if I had really wanted to make it back by 2:00, I probably could have trail run parts of it and gotten there. But what’s the fun in that?




 Tuolumne Falls


  ...pictures are hard
 White Cascade Falls
 Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp--at the base of White Cascade Falls
 Store/Kitchen--tonight was Pork Night with homemade bread, soup, salad, and dessert. Mouth currently watering.
Glen Aulin HSC tent cabins

Instead, on one of the signs I had passed, there was a route to Yosemite Valley past Tenaya Lake via the Murphy Creek Trail and then via the Snow Creek Trail to Mirror Lake. “Only” 18 more miles. The three people in the store (one of whom was a former Curry Village Lifeguard a couple seasons ago) thought I was nuts to start that ~1:15…but what the heck, why not? So naturally I went with Plan TBD and didn’t impose on any of my friends/acquaintances/total strangers. If you guessed I would pick that one, congrats, maybe you know me or something.

At that point I chose to listen to my feel good/pick me up music—the playlist is literally named “Positive.” I hand-picked each of the songs because I felt they had a positive message, and when you’re starting 18 miles after 1:00 in the afternoon, you need your mental game to be on point. My two go-to songs are on this playlist—You Are Loved by Stars Go Dim and Thrive by Casting Crowns. If you’ve never heard them before, you should definitely listen to them. During the school year when I’m sulking because of work or practice or I just got an A- on a test :) … there’s a good chance that I’ll listen to one of these songs because they’re so awesome. I’m not usually much for recent music, oldies but goodies all the way, but these are exceptions. Another good one for hiking (or actually anything challenging) is Limitless by Colton Dixon. I could really go on and on about music because music is so awesome…but I’ll continue with the day.

I really wanted to get back before dark because I only packed a flashlight. I still need to take everyone’s advice and buy a headlamp—I just haven’t gotten around to it yet. Starting my hike so late in the day, at 10:20, really just threw me off. Usually for a 20-30 mile hike, I’m almost halfway done by the time I eat lunch. Today I had about 6 miles done and three times that more to go. Yuck.

It was also right about after lunch that mosquitoes kept landing on me. I became a slapping machine, but those things were everywhere. I contemplated putting my orange raincoat on, but I was already extremely warm and didn’t really want to do that. I was afraid it would make me drink more water, and I was trying to limit myself on that for a few reasons—1) I didn’t want to have to pee all the time. 2) I didn’t want to stop to drink it. 3) I had cottonmouth all day today and it was driving me nuts, so I was having a hard time rationing it out so that I’d have some left at the end. No need to add to the thirst. (The past couple days at work, I’ve been drinking over 2 gallons of water. It is so toasty warm.) I tried leaving the remains of the mosquitoes on my skin as a sign to their counterparts what would happen if they landed there. Those little kamikazes didn’t take my hint, and soon I had to brush them all off again because I felt disgusting. Darn mosquitoes—life lesson: bring bug spray with you up to the high country because there’s so much water.

Tenaya Lake--lots of people go swimming and floating here--there are many picnic areas and beaches

Speaking of water, like I needed anything else to slow me down, there was water covering parts of the trail. Usually, I just hop from rock to rock or balance on a log to get over. Well, one such trek didn’t go so great. I typically test my weight on any skinny logs before I put my full weight on them in case they roll. Well, somehow it didn’t work correctly on this really super long skinny one (the only available tool to cross), and it rolled and my entire left shoe went into the muddy water. I was not happy at all. I went and sat on a rock after I finished crossing and rang my sock out and tried to beat my shoe. Didn’t work—it was still wet. :( At the point, I think I had just passed Tenaya Lake, so I probably had 9ish miles left. Bah humbug.

I didn’t like the Snow Creek Trail going down any more than I had coming up in whenever that was to get to North Dome. It was boring and not very scenic. Which is why I decided that it would be beneficial to run the parts that weren’t crazy rocky. There were a few spots up near the beginning, specifically in the Olmstead Point area where the trail wasn’t marked very well. I had to keep retracing my steps and looking at it again. There was one spot that took me almost ten minutes to track down where the trail continued because it was overgrown by weeds and then just rocks after that. Extremely frustrating. Dumb trail. Not a fan. Neither were my ankles by that point. They hated me for making them go down the Snow Creek Trail—the steepest descent to the valley. I also needed to do it quickly because I was losing light as the sun set, especially in the wooded area. I ended up getting almost all of the switchbacks knocked out before I had to turn on my flashlight. After that, it was just another couple miles to Mirror Lake.

 from the Scenic Overlook on the Snow Creek trail, basically right below Olmstead Point
Half Dome around sunset on the way down

By the time I got to the edge of Mirror Lake, it was a little after 9:15. I’m not extremely familiar with the trail back to the Ahwahnee from there, but I remembered that it’s pretty rocky. I didn’t really feel like doing that with my flashlight—it makes me go so slow. I hate going slow. So instead, I went another 1.8 miles over to Curry Village to get………you guessed it—ice cream before they closed at 10:00. Always thinking with my stomach. I was still super thirsty, so I got a shake (Cookie Dough, one of the special flavors for this weekend, and Chocolate), and one of my friends that works there charged me exactly $0. Thanks Tom! The guys that work there (Tom, Sam, and Neil/Nick?) are all super nice. The one girl is okay. The other girl is a pain in the butt. Coincidentally (or not), she happens to now be dating the coworker that I just helped get transferred to the Lodge Pool because they lost one and we had an extra. Who to send? The weakest link…the one that doesn’t do anything—sucks at guarding, sucks at cleaning, argues with everything I say (even though I’m 100% right), and breaks half of the rules that we, as lifeguards, are required to follow—no eating on the pool deck, don’t use your cell phone, no reading, etc. Idiot. So glad he’s gone now. Interestingly enough, he now becomes Conor’s roommate Ryan’s problem, since Ryan is the lead lifeguard over at the Lodge. (Conor—HP, Connor—Lifeguard——sorry if it’s confusing for you.)

I took the bus back to my tent at the Ahwahnee because I was tired of walking, so that puts my total around 25.5 miles for the day. So basically tomorrow will be a lazy day. ;) I like those days. After eating some leftovers, guzzling an excessive amount of water, and typing this up—I’m now all set to go to bed. Unfortunately it’s no longer Friday; it’s 1:45 in the morning. Bah humbug.

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